PMID: 29465384Feb 22, 2018Paper

A botanically derived skin surface lipid mimetic based on the composition of healthy 22-year-old females

Journal of Cosmetic Science
Jeff AddyRobert Harper

Abstract

Skin surface lipids (SSLs) greatly affect the skin physiology and are thought to be involved in skin processes such as thermoregulation, bacterial colonization, and barrier function and maintenance. SSLs are primarily composed of fatty acids, triglycerides, cholesterol, steryl esters, wax esters, and squalene. The objective of this research was to evaluate and better understand the SSL composition and variation in an age- and sex-controlled population, and create an appropriate botanically derived mimetic. SSL samples taken from the foreheads of 59 healthy, 22-year-old females were analyzed by gas chromatography mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Using botanically derived raw materials fromMacadamia integrifolia,Simmondsia chinensis, andOlea europaea, a mimetic was engineered via a series of esterification reactions and lipid components quantitated with GC-MS. The glyceride and wax ester components were produced by the interesterification ofM. integrifoliaandS. chinensisunder specified conditions. The steryl ester component was produced by the esterification of the fatty acids ofM. integrifoliaand phytosterols under similar conditions. The following major classes of lipids were found and quantified by percent composition: glycerides, f...Continue Reading

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