PMID: 29465383Feb 22, 2018Paper

An in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopic investigation of salicylic acid penetration: Variation with formulation parameters

Journal of Cosmetic Science
Mark A Davies

Abstract

Salicylic acid (SA) is widely used in leave-on antiacne formulations, typically at a 2% level. As a β-hydroxy acid, it is a milder active ingredient than either α-hydroxy acids or benzoyl peroxide. SA is a keratolytic agent, a bacteriocide, and a comedolytic agent. For these reasons, improving the efficiency of SA delivery is of interest. The objective of this work is to measure in vivo SA penetration from topically applied 2% SA leave-on products and to understand the penetration in terms of formulation parameters. Penetration of SA was measured in three depth zones-0-3 μm, 3-6 μm, and 6-9 μm below the surface-using in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy. The delivery of SA from an emulsion, pH 4.0, and a hydrogel, pH 3.75, was compared and contrasted. A comparison of depth profiles reveals, e.g., significant differences in SA distribution between-treatment profiles at various time points after treatment, particularly 3℃6 μm below the surface. The hydrogel exhibited the higher normalized level of SA in the 3-6 μm depth zone. Confocal in vivo Raman spectroscopy is proving to be a valuable tool in determination of details of penetration of products into the skin. The penetration of various 2% SA anti-acne product forms will be comp...Continue Reading

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