Effect of hold depth and grip technique on maximal finger forces in rock climbing

Journal of Sports Sciences
Arif Mithat AmcaEric Berton

Abstract

The aim of this study was to understand how the commonly used climbing-specific grip techniques and hold depths influence the finger force capacities. Ten advanced climbers performed maximal voluntary force on four different hold depths (from 1 to 4 cm) and in two force directions (antero-posterior and vertical) using three grip techniques (slope, half crimp and full crimp). A specially designed platform instrumented with a 6-degrees-of-freedom (DoF) force/torque sensor was used to record force values. Results showed that the maximal vertical forces differed significantly according to the hold depth and the grip technique (ranged from 350.8 N to 575.7 N). The maximal vertical forces increased according to the hold depth but the form of this increase differed depending on grip technique. These results seemed to be more associated with finger-hold contact/interaction than with internal biomechanical factors. Similar results were revealed for antero-posterior forces (ranged from 69.9 N to 138.0 N) but, it was additionally noted that climbers have different hand-forearm posture strategies with slope and crimp grip techniques when applying antero-posterior forces. This point is important as it could influence the body position adopt...Continue Reading

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Citations

Jun 12, 2013·Journal of Sports Sciences·Jesús Morenas MartínJuan Santiago Gómez Navarrete
Nov 26, 2015·Sports Medicine·Dominic OrthLudovic Seifert
Aug 7, 2016·European Journal of Sport Science·Jiří BalášSimon Fryer
Oct 11, 2015·Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports·G LaffayeJ-M Collin
Dec 18, 2014·European Journal of Applied Physiology·Laurent VigourouxEric Berton
Nov 20, 2016·European Journal of Sport Science·Espen HermansAtle Hole Saeterbakken
Mar 27, 2018·Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport·Michail Lubomirov MichailovLee Brown
May 25, 2018·European Journal of Sport Science·Chris ButtonLudovic Seifert
Feb 6, 2017·Journal of Human Kinetics·Mariusz OzimekArkadiusz Stanula
Oct 18, 2018·Journal of Sports Sciences·Laurent VigourouxEric Berton
Aug 19, 2017·Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research·John CroninDaniel T McMaster
Sep 26, 2017·Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research·Guillaume Levernier, Guillaume Laffaye
Aug 5, 2020·Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports·Marlene H van KnobelsdorffDominic Orth
Sep 24, 2020·European Journal of Sport Science·Pedro BerguaJosé A Casajús
Apr 17, 2019·Journal of Human Kinetics·Eva López-Rivera, Juan José González-Badillo
Oct 30, 2020·Sports Biomechanics·Ludovic SeifertPierre Legreneur

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Software Mentioned

Statistica
SIMI Motion movement
MATLAB
Labview

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