Emollient molecule effects on the drying stresses in human stratum corneum

The British Journal of Dermatology
K LeviReinhold H Dauskardt

Abstract

Emollient molecules are widely used in skin care formulations to improve skin sensory properties and to alleviate dry skin but little is understood regarding their effects on skin biomechanical properties. To investigate the effects of emollient molecules on drying stresses in human stratum corneum (SC) and how these stresses are related to SC components and moisture content. The substrate curvature method was used to measure the drying stresses in isolated SC following exposure to selected emollient molecules. While SC stresses measured using this method have the same biaxial in vivo stress state and moisture exchange with the environment, a limitation of the method is that moisture cannot be replenished by the underlying skin layers. This provides an opportunity to study the direct effects of emollient treatments on the moisture content and the components of the SC. Attenuated total reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy was used to determine the effects of emollient molecules on SC lipid extraction and conformation. Results Emollient molecules resulted in a complex SC drying stress profile where stresses increased rapidly to peak values and then gradually decreased to significantly lower values compared with the...Continue Reading

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Citations

Nov 5, 2011·Biomechanics and Modeling in Mechanobiology·Alexander M ZöllnerEllen Kuhl
Oct 3, 2012·Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States of America·Krysta BiniekReinhold H Dauskardt
Aug 16, 2015·Journal of Dermatological Science·Krysta BiniekReinhold H Dauskardt
Feb 1, 2013·International Journal of Cosmetic Science·K P AnanthapadmanabhanP Chandar
Mar 26, 2013·Journal of the Mechanical Behavior of Biomedical Materials·Kemal Levi
Jun 5, 2015·Journal of the Mechanical Behavior of Biomedical Materials·Maria F Leyva-MendivilGeorges Limbert
Oct 30, 2016·International Journal of Cosmetic Science·C BerkeyR H Dauskardt
Jan 22, 2014·Journal of Biophotonics·Raoul VyumvuhoreArlette Baillet-Guffroy
Aug 15, 2020·International Journal of Cosmetic Science·C BerkeyR H Dauskardt
Jun 23, 2020·International Journal of Cosmetic Science·F AnsariR H Dauskardt

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