Formulation of Pickering emulsions for the development of surfactant-free sunscreen creams.

International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Claire BordesYves Chevalier

Abstract

Pickering emulsions are increasingly used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields, especially for topical applications, since these systems require solid particles as emulsifiers instead of surfactants which are known to cause skin irritation. The solid inorganic nanoparticles (TiO2 and ZnO) used as UV filters in sunscreen formulations may also stabilize emulsion droplets, so that the utility of surfactants may be questioned. Surfactant-free sunscreen emulsions solely stabilized by such nanoparticles (NPs) have been studied. The ability of these NPs to stabilize o/w emulsions containing a 'model' oil phase, the C12 -C15 alkylbenzoate, has been assessed. ZnO and hydrophilic silica-coated TiO2 NPs widely used in sunscreen products were used together with their mixtures. The emulsification efficiency, the control of droplet size and the stability of o/w Pickering emulsions solely stabilized by NPs were investigated. A ZnO/TiO2 NPs mixture characterized by a theoretical SPF of 45 was finally used as unique emulsifiers to develop a surfactant-free sunscreen emulsion. Stable Pickering emulsions containing 10 up to 60 wt% of C12 -C15 alkyl benzoate were formulated with 2 wt% ZnO in the aqueous phase. The droplet size was controlled ...Continue Reading

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