Superior effect of isostearyl isostearate on improvement in stratum corneum water permeability barrier function as examined by the plastic occlusion stress test

International Journal of Cosmetic Science
G PennickA V Rawlings

Abstract

Dry skin is a major dermatological problem and consumer research indicates that although current moisturizers are effective they are not completely meeting consumer expectation. Several technological approaches have been taken but influencing stratum corneum (SC) lipid phase behaviour as a novel water permeability barrier-enhancing and moisturizing mechanism has only been started to be investigated recently. Both the long periodicity SC lipid lamellar phase and the orthorhombic lipid packing state have been proposed to define optimal SC water permeability barrier properties. Several lipophillic moisturizers have been tested for their ability to modify SC lipid lateral packing namely glyceryl monoisostearate (GMIS), isopropyl isostearate (IPIS) and isostearyl isostearate (ISIS) of which IPIS and ISIS are reported to induce the orthorhombic phase. Despite the improvements in the lateral packing of SC lipids, these ingredients have been shown not to improve transepidermal water loss. However, using a novel skin surface water loss method we have observed for the first time significant improvements in SC water permeability barrier function for ISIS compared with IPIS, GMIS and petrolatum. However, using synthetic membranes and measu...Continue Reading

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Citations

Jun 28, 2011·International Journal of Cosmetic Science·R VoegeliA V Rawlings
Aug 14, 2012·International Journal of Cosmetic Science·G PennickA V Rawlings
Aug 24, 2012·International Journal of Cosmetic Science·J C DederenA V Rawlings
Oct 4, 2015·The Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology·Tali CzarnowickiEmma Guttman-Yassky
Aug 26, 2016·Biophysical Journal·Remco HartkampClare McCabe
Sep 13, 2015·International Journal of Toxicology·Monice M FiumeF Alan Andersen
May 23, 2012·International Journal of Cosmetic Science·R L EvansM Harker
Oct 22, 2020·Skin Research and Technology : Official Journal of International Society for Bioengineering and the Skin (ISBS) [and] International Society for Digital Imaging of Skin (ISDIS) [and] International Society for Skin Imaging (ISSI)·Fatemeh KeshavarziEsben Thormann
Feb 19, 2021·International Journal of Cosmetic Science·Anthony Vincent Rawlings
Mar 6, 2018·The Journal of Physical Chemistry. B·Remco HartkampClare McCabe
Mar 21, 2020·The Journal of Physical Chemistry. B·Alexander YangClare McCabe

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